Transplanting Trees in the Western Cape: What Works, What Doesn’t, and Why Timing is Everything

Thinking about moving a tree? Here’s what you need to know before you dig.

There’s something deeply satisfying about saving a tree - especially one that’s outgrown its space, was planted in the wrong spot, or needs to make way for a new structure. But transplanting trees isn’t a quick fix or a weekend project. Done well, it’s a long-term investment. Done wrong, it’s a slow loss.

At Overberg Arborists, we’ve transplanted everything from Milkwoods to large Acacias to rows of ornamental olives — and we’ve seen firsthand what helps a tree thrive in its new location (and what quietly kills it six months later).

This guide covers everything you need to know before moving a tree in the Western Cape: what trees can handle it, when to do it, how to prepare both sites, and why professional support isn’t optional for larger specimens.

What Does “Transplanting” Actually Mean?

Let’s be clear:

transplanting isn’t just “digging up and plonking somewhere else.”

It’s a calculated process of moving a tree from one growing environment to another.

Ideally, with its root system intact, its crown supported, and its post-move conditions optimised for survival.

It’s part science, part logistics, and part long-game.

Can All Trees Be Transplanted?

Short answer: no.

Long answer: it depends on the species, size, age, root structure, season, and whether it was container-grown or planted in-ground from seed.

Here’s a general breakdown:

Tree Type	Transplant Success	Notes
Young indigenous trees (under 2m tall)	High	Easy if root ball is intact and soil is moist
Container-grown ornamentals	High	Especially if they’re not root-bound
Established garden trees (2–5m)	Moderate	Needs proper prep and timing
Large, mature trees (5m+)	Low–Moderate	Requires machinery, root pruning, recovery time
Taprooted species (e.g. Wild Pear)	Low	Taproots are hard to move intact
Invasives (e.g. Eucalyptus)	Not advised	Often better removed than relocated

When Is the Best Time to Transplant a Tree?

Late winter to early spring.

Here’s why:

• The tree is dormant = less shock

• Rainfall is more reliable = lower watering demands

• Roots have time to re-establish before summer stress hits

Avoid transplanting during:

• Peak summer heat (root desiccation risk is high)

• Active growth phases (too much energy above ground, not enough below)

• Immediately before or during flowering/fruiting

Transplanting is stressful. Choose a time when the tree has the best odds of bouncing back.

The Right Tree in the Wrong Spot: Should You Move It?

If you’re wondering whether it’s worth the effort, ask yourself:

• Is it growing too close to a structure, pool, or paving?

  
  

• Is it shaded out and struggling, or casting too much shade on more vulnerable plants?

  
  

• Is it disrupting plumbing or foundations?

  
  

• Was it planted without consideration for mature size?

  
  

• Does it have significant sentimental or ecological value?

If the answer is yes to any of the above — and the tree is still structurally sound and worth saving — it’s a good candidate for transplanting.

Key Factors for a Successful Tree Move

Transplanting isn’t just about digging and hoping. It’s about setting up the move months in advance.

Here’s what matters:

1. Root Preparation (Root Pruning)

If the tree is large, root pruning 3–6 months ahead of time is essential. This helps the tree form a tighter, more contained root ball and encourages new root growth closer to the trunk.

How it works:

• A trench is dug around the tree to cut the longer, anchoring roots.

• The tree continues growing for a few months while new feeder roots develop within the trimmed zone.

• When it’s time to move, you get a more compact, healthier root system.

No root prep = higher shock = lower survival rate.

2. Soil Moisture and Soil Type

Dry root balls = broken roots. Water the tree thoroughly 24–48 hours before the move. Clay-heavy or compacted soils may require additional loosening or preparation at the new site.

Don’t transplant into hardpan or waterlogged ground.

3. Crown Reduction (Selective)

In some cases, especially with broadleaf evergreens, a light crown reduction can help reduce water loss and stress. Don’t overdo it — trees still need leaves to photosynthesize and recover.

4. Timing the Lift

On transplant day, aim to lift early in the morning or on a cool, overcast day. Wind and sun exposure during root ball transfer should be minimised. Wrap roots in damp hessian or cover with shade net if delays are expected.

5. New Hole, Prepped Properly

The new site should:

• Be at least twice as wide as the root ball

• Match the planting depth precisely (never deeper)

• Have loose, friable soil for root exploration

• Be well-drained

• Have no competing roots or weeds

A poorly prepped hole is one of the fastest ways to waste all your effort.

What Happens After Transplanting?

1. Watering

Consistent, deep watering is critical for the first 6–12 months. Use slow irrigation, mulch generously (but not against the trunk), and monitor soil moisture weekly. A dry week can undo the entire transplant.

2. Staking (If Necessary)

Tall or top-heavy trees might need staking for the first season to stabilise the root system. Always use flexible ties and remove them after a year to prevent girdling.

3. No Fertiliser

Don’t feed a transplanted tree. It’s recovering, not growing. Wait at least one full growing season before introducing light organic amendments — if needed at all.

4. Monitoring for Shock

Signs of transplant shock include:

• Leaf drop

• Wilting despite watering

• Slow or no growth after months

• Branch dieback

Not all shock is fatal — but it needs patience and consistent care. Most trees show signs of recovery in their second growing season.

Common Transplanting Mistakes (And How to Avoid Them)

Mistake	Why It Fails	Better Approach
Digging too small a root ball	Misses vital feeder roots	Measure trunk caliper, use root ball guide
Planting too deep	Suffocates roots and collar	Match original soil line
Moving during a heatwave	Causes extreme stress	Wait for cool, dormant season
Leaving roots exposed	Causes drying and damage	Keep moist + covered at all times
Fertilising too soon	Burns roots, delays recovery	Wait a full season or more
No aftercare	Tree declines over months	Monitor, water, adjust as needed

Can Large Trees Be Transplanted?

Yes — with caveats.

Trees above 5 metres tall or with trunks thicker than 15 cm typically require:

• Mechanical lifting equipment

• Root ball wrapping (burlap + wire baskets)

• Structural pruning

• Expert handling at both ends

This is not DIY territory. It’s a job for an experienced crew with specialised tools and the knowledge to avoid shock, collapse, or long-term decline.

We’ve moved trees up to 9m tall — but only after weeks of prep and very deliberate execution. If the tree is valuable (a protected species, rare cultivar, or part of a landscape plan), get professional help from the beginning.

Indigenous vs Exotic: Does It Matter?

Yes.

Indigenous species (like Wild Olive, Milkwood, or Kei Apple) are often more resilient to transplanting — especially if moved within their native range. They tend to adapt better to local soils, rainfall patterns, and pest pressures.

Exotics, especially fast growers like Tipuana, London Plane, or exotic palms, are often shallow-rooted or brittle. They can be transplanted, but they tend to suffer more from shock, especially in high heat or wind zones.

Always ask whether the species is worth saving — and whether it fits the space you're moving it to.

Final Thought: Is Transplanting Worth It?

In the right hands, yes. Transplanting can:

• Save mature trees from development sites

• Move valuable species to better locations

• Preserve ecological value and landscape intent

But it’s not a shortcut or a guarantee.

If the tree isn’t worth saving, or if site prep isn’t possible, sometimes starting fresh with a new, well-planned planting is a better option.

At Overberg Arborists, we help clients weigh the real cost of moving a tree — not just in money, but in water, time, and recovery. Sometimes we recommend it. Sometimes we don’t.

But either way, we do what’s right for the tree, not just the project.

Need help deciding whether to transplant or replant?

We offer on-site assessments and digital consultations across the Western Cape.

Let’s make sure you get the right tree in the right place for the long term.

1. Book a consult

2.  DM us “Transplant” for site-specific guidance

3.  Download our free Tree Guide for the Western Cape